I’ve been using this 239 bulb after the factory GE #47 bulb went dead. 239 is same 6.3V and the bayonet base is identical to #47. mine came from Westinghouse as I remember. and found more from Tung-sol, Sylvania, Chicago Miniature, and more
239 rated 2.268 watt while 47 is 0.945 watt according to this web page. I’m wondering if I can go with this bulb. but didn’t have an issue yet
Lets start to create a photo gallery of the world on this tread! Feel free to post your favorite picture of a place, architecture, car or image of your favorite photographer.
it’s my tweed deluxe 5d3 with Astron cap paper sleeves with Sprague caps inside. TE-1207 for 25uf 25V. and, 16uf 475V for 16uf 450V. I’m still after one more Astron 16uf 450V cap or sleeve. but even dead astron caps are not cheap on ebay. I tried it but the ending price went way further than I expected.
this 5d3 is getting closer to the original shape with the restuff filter caps. the correct switchcraft 1/4 phone plug and 18awg Gaviitt cloth wire are coming to me as well.
I’m trying CTS 8″ 4ohm speaker which looks and sounds pretty close to Jensen P8T. even it sounds like my stock Oxford 8EV speakers. actually it’s better with this great condition
the filter caps are 33uf+10uf+10uf from Philips Holland factory. and replaced the power tube cathode bypass cap with 47uf to tame the midrange and bass. I like this setup and this vintage CTS 8″ sounds more like my vintage P12R and P12Q.
it’s a huge upgrade while my friend is getting his own vintage speaker. he is working on a P8U frame with recent cone which is close to the original cone.
I tried recent Mallory 150P, Jupiter yellow caps made after Astron blue point. and the final setup is Roederstein .022uf 630v caps.
the stock speaker from Weber is not bad while the breakup threshold is way different. but it still sounds good to me. and it seems to take a while to break in.
Not sure what I’m going to do with this speaker while I don’t have any SF or BF fender. I remember my friends older than me loved it when I was a kid. even I still remember how the sound was. I saw the same speaker with gray and orange frames. this D120F came from 70’s silver face twin reverb and it’s orange. and it still has the original cone
This post would be a help. but it seems impossible to get them unless you guys push MIP to make them again.
it’s the basic info for Yokomo CVD bones
’94 YZ10 front CVD bone 84mm
’94 YZ10 rear CVD bone 79mm
MX4 rear CVD bone 79mm
Kysho RB5/RB6 70mm CVD bones work for 870C F/R
MX4 rear bone works with ’94 YZ10 rear. and, Works F/R
’94 YZ10 rear bone works with Works F/R. and, for 870C front wide setup
Bj4 front bone doesn’t work for Yokomo diff cups
’94 YZ10 front
from the top, MX4 Rear / ’94 YZ10 Rear / Jconcpets BJ4 front.
the length are identical to each other. but the head pins are not. I’ve tried more CVD bones from AE and Losi. and all the US brand CVD bones have bigger head pins which don’t fit Yokomo diff cups
While the length is identical, Bj4 CVD bone don’t work for Yokomo diff cups
’94 yz10 cvd bones go deep inside of the diff
MX4 bones have longer head pins. it’s fine except for 870C