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Beautiful designs! I have a public page on Fb, and someday I will ask you to create a new logo for my page. Keep up the good work.
It might take awhile, just have to see how to get more suscribers otherwise it ain’t worth it. Also, I am thinking about to create my own website which will provide more design work. 😉
Did you learn all of this by yourself or through school / college / university?
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Came across this big red bum fuzz here on reverb.com
Sola Sound / Macaris sells a few different versions with different components along with the pricing. this one is a literally cheap, actually the cheapest version of them. they had/have more coming as well.
http://www.macaris.co.uk/colorsound
They have 3 different versions by the price. £399.00, £349.00, and £149.00. then I paid $29 for international shipping. mine is £149.00. it was $195 shipped to South Korea.
£399.00 and £349.00 versions come with the reliable components like Cliff jacks, Carling(could be Arrow H&H) DPDT footswitch, Omeg potentiometers (2 of log B 100K, 1 of linear A 100K), and better caps and resistors.
They put Zetex ZTX109 transistors on £399.00 version with better caps, even with the NOS carbon composite resistors, and probably with some tweaks.
£349.00 Bum Fuzz Unit comes with BC184 transistors. £149.00 version comes with the same transistors as far as I know. (update – this pedal came with BC549C known as a substitute for BC184)
But, £149.00 version has, as the name, cheap components include the plastic molded pots. the pots feel not good. but they still came from Piher at least. it has more unknown parts like 1/4″ jacks, footswitch, knobs, and ceramic caps.
I believe I can change some of the parts using the pics on Macaris.co.uk and Reverb.com. The schematics for Jumbo Tone Bender and B&M fuzz are on the web.
I’ll update with some mods and samples. here are the pictures
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They tweaked the large sprague caps and the small ones too much for the scene. but it’s still good to see my favorite sprague capacitors on a movie. aren’t they orange back in the days?
this board is Apple-1 from this movie Jobs from 2013
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2357129/?ref_=fn_al_tt_2
btw, I wanted to capture the scenes. and it didn’t work with Safari browser. this helped me out. you can capture the screenshot while it’s playing on chrome. it didn’t work while posed.
https://www.quora.com/How-can-I-screenshot-Netflix-without-getting-a-black-screen-image
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This post would be a help. but it seems impossible to get them unless you guys push MIP to make them again.
it’s the basic info for Yokomo CVD bones
’94 YZ10 front CVD bone 84mm
’94 YZ10 rear CVD bone 79mm
MX4 rear CVD bone 79mm
Kysho RB5/RB6 70mm CVD bones work for 870C F/R
MX4 rear bone works with ’94 YZ10 rear. and, Works F/R
’94 YZ10 rear bone works with Works F/R. and, for 870C front wide setup
Bj4 front bone doesn’t work for Yokomo diff cups
’94 YZ10 front
from the top, MX4 Rear / ’94 YZ10 Rear / Jconcpets BJ4 front.
the length are identical to each other. but the head pins are not. I’ve tried more CVD bones from AE and Losi. and all the US brand CVD bones have bigger head pins which don’t fit Yokomo diff cups
While the length is identical, Bj4 CVD bone don’t work for Yokomo diff cups
’94 yz10 cvd bones go deep inside of the diff
MX4 bones have longer head pins. it’s fine except for 870C
870C front wide setup with ’94 YZ10 CVD
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i’ve got this les paul tv yellow a couple of weeks ago.
it has very nice tone saturation and the ranges of volume control.
very simple control with playability, of course the design is simple too.
i checked the serial number as I learned through the wikipedia. it has made at ’83 when gibson company shifted kalamazoo to nashville before they established historic / customshop line.
replaced the stock ceramic cap with sprague black beauty capacitor right after I got this beauty. and this les paul sounds way better than before with the sustain.
lucky strike it is.
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1 Likes, 0 Comments – Anita Ekman (@anitaekmanartist) on Instagram: “Pintura de luz : Dona Quixote de la mancha.”
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i designed those two works for yoffy who work really hard on music
here is his soundcloud profile link
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needed a longer AC cord for my 5D3 and tried E3462-C cord. this cord noticeably reduces noise even while it has more amps and computers share the same AC and audio source.
then I replaced all the AC cord with this for my tweed amps. the most dramatic change comes to ’59 5F1 which was quiet alone but it cannot be hooked up with AB box. even 60hz hum was loud when it shared the same AC power source without AB box. ground lift didn’t work either. it just shifted the noise frequency
this seller has the cable. but, only one of three was correct. two of them were E3462 without C. they are metal shielded and the noise was louder than 2 prong cord.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-CPU-Power-Cord-Cable-SVT-E-3462-C-LL-30830/253801406241
found another seller had the correct cable. and finally all of my tweed amps are dead quiet at any circumstance with E3462-C. even there is no difference between the original and modern 5F1 with or without the center tab.
and this typical ac cord wasn’t that bad for 5D3 but there is a huge difference with 5F1. E3462-C is still way better for 5D3 as well.
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I’m trying CTS 8″ 4ohm speaker which looks and sounds pretty close to Jensen P8T. even it sounds like my stock Oxford 8EV speakers. actually it’s better with this great condition
the filter caps are 33uf+10uf+10uf from Philips Holland factory. and replaced the power tube cathode bypass cap with 47uf to tame the midrange and bass. I like this setup and this vintage CTS 8″ sounds more like my vintage P12R and P12Q.
it’s a huge upgrade while my friend is getting his own vintage speaker. he is working on a P8U frame with recent cone which is close to the original cone.
I tried recent Mallory 150P, Jupiter yellow caps made after Astron blue point. and the final setup is Roederstein .022uf 630v caps.
the stock speaker from Weber is not bad while the breakup threshold is way different. but it still sounds good to me. and it seems to take a while to break in.
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