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Beautiful designs! I have a public page on Fb, and someday I will ask you to create a new logo for my page. Keep up the good work.
It might take awhile, just have to see how to get more suscribers otherwise it ain’t worth it. Also, I am thinking about to create my own website which will provide more design work. 😉
Did you learn all of this by yourself or through school / college / university?
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it’s getting better with some NOS caps and tubes. 50’s Jensen does something of course. VHT standard 12 is a bit bigger than the original tweed deluxe. and I like this cabinet as well. I might try P15N at some point
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You will have a grand orchestral experience.
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it’s a ’59 fender tweed champ with 8″ stock jensen speaker. I’ve learned more than a few things from this amp. mostly about the tone. and it forces me to play more than before I got this small tweed amp.
I’m using 5y3 rectifier for the original setup along with 5v4g for more clean headroom. and watching that huge rectifier from the back side. 5v4g and Bendix 5y3 look beautiful at night.
5F1 breaks up early and it’s the character of this amp. 5v4g makes 5F1 sounds a bit like tweed deluxe. but, it’s still tweed champ of course. and, I recently noticed 5f1 with 5v4g is more vulnerable to 60hz hum. so, I came back to the stock 5y3
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I made this list from Asso_man!’s RC10talk thread a couple of years ago. and just noticed the file I uploaded has gone somwhere.
Yokomo YZ10 W.C.S part list thread on RC10talk
the scanned images are here
Yokomo YZ10 Pavidis Part list #1 & #2
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MR-4BX series has been produced for only a couple of years. the first version came at ’06 and replaced with B-Max4 which was different from previous yoke buggies at ’08.
MR-4BX series is like the last blood of traditional Yokomo to me. and I see the same blood on Jconcepts BJ4.
a few prototypes on Japanese magazines were not far from MX-4 YMP until 2004. they put a slipper clutch, moved the motor mount forward, put B4 rear arms and losi style steering knuckles, and so on.. through early ’06
my friend who has been working with Yokomo and other japanese rc companies told me their CNC machine was never stopped for a couple of years to make new prototype parts. I know it never stopped before MR-4BX. but more than a few MR-4BX prototypes have spotted on Yatabe arena for years.
I have managed to get a nicely used Worlds edition last month. and took some pics with my factory edition. they both came at ’07.
the differences between them are main chassis, F/R shock towers, top deck(s), steering, rear bulkhead, and a few misc parts
Front End
MR-4BX Worlds came with a new camber mount which allows only the longest upper rod setup. also the steering is different than previous 2 versions
this new camber mount can be installed on older versions as well
the original and Factory edition’s front tower provide 6 points of upper rod mount position. the tower is compatible with the original through Worlds. and the inside position provides pretty much same result as Worlds’ front camber mount
Steering
the steerings are quite different. I hope I can feel the difference while I’m running this Worlds edition. but, didn’t have a chance so far.
this steering was introduced with MX-4. prototype MX-4 still had older servo saver. and the first time I saw this was in MX-4 kit.
but the difference is the angle. this steering system on MR-4BX is tilted for better handling.
Chassis
this 2 piece structure was came from the prototype and applied to the production models through the 1st and Factory edition. but Worlds edition came with 1 piece chassis
MR-4BX Worlds came with this 1 piece chassis with 2 extra holes for new steering system. please ignore the stainless screws on the Factory chassis. I’d go back to the black steel screws.
Top Deck
the top deck, now it covers the rear belt. and new camber mount is here
Factory edition had 2 piece top deck like the original version. but the rear piece was improved that older one has clearance problem with the belt
the rear top deck from the ’06 original version
Rear Shock Mounting
there were a few guys tried this before Worlds edition came. the shocks were moved to the back end of the car.
also they put a camber mount like the front end
the original and Factory edition had same suspension geometry. the shocks can be moved to the back end with this stock mount plus a few tricks
the new aluminum part which holds the the shock tower is changed along with new bulkhead and camber mount
related links
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewbx/index.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/review501x/page08.html
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Came across this big red bum fuzz here on reverb.com
Sola Sound / Macaris sells a few different versions with different components along with the pricing. this one is a literally cheap, actually the cheapest version of them. they had/have more coming as well.
http://www.macaris.co.uk/colorsound
They have 3 different versions by the price. £399.00, £349.00, and £149.00. then I paid $29 for international shipping. mine is £149.00. it was $195 shipped to South Korea.
£399.00 and £349.00 versions come with the reliable components like Cliff jacks, Carling(could be Arrow H&H) DPDT footswitch, Omeg potentiometers (2 of log B 100K, 1 of linear A 100K), and better caps and resistors.
They put Zetex ZTX109 transistors on £399.00 version with better caps, even with the NOS carbon composite resistors, and probably with some tweaks.
£349.00 Bum Fuzz Unit comes with BC184 transistors. £149.00 version comes with the same transistors as far as I know. (update – this pedal came with BC549C known as a substitute for BC184)
But, £149.00 version has, as the name, cheap components include the plastic molded pots. the pots feel not good. but they still came from Piher at least. it has more unknown parts like 1/4″ jacks, footswitch, knobs, and ceramic caps.
I believe I can change some of the parts using the pics on Macaris.co.uk and Reverb.com. The schematics for Jumbo Tone Bender and B&M fuzz are on the web.
I’ll update with some mods and samples. here are the pictures
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client want it looks simple and use red,white,black. his blog is about IT and Gaming
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On this episode of Head 2 Head, Automobile Magazine’s Jason Cammisa rekindles a classic European sports sedan battle, pitting the legendary BMW E30 M3 agains…
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I just tried 9V battery trick for 50’s Fender Champ 5F1 and Deluxe 5D3. and the speaker wiring turned out being reversed. both of them still have the factory wiring.
And, both of them move backward (to the magnets) when they wired 9V + to the white wire, and – pole to the black wire.
They mostly say there is no absolute speaker phase unless they are in the same cabinet. at the same time, many people say the speaker cones move forward when they hooked up in the right direction with 9V battery.
Fortunately, 9V battery didn’t kill my 8″ Champ speaker, nor 12″ Deluxe speaker. but I’ve read some cases this trick killed their speakers.
I’m not sure with 50’s and 60’s Jensen speaker’s correct phase. but, I started to believe Fender hooked them up this way. I’ve seen only 2 cases. and will update if I come across any Jensen speaker with different phase.
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[EDIT]
I’m updating this post not to make people confused. I believed B+ was lower with 5v4g than 5y3. but 5v4g is increasing B+ and makes the bias warmer than 5y3. I guess it is the reason I feel the amps are more alive with 5v4g
then I noticed the vintage amps with the original caps from 50’s and early 60’s are more vulnerable with 5v4g to 60hz hum. I’m just guessing leakage of the coupling caps and the filter caps could be the reason. I’m still enjoying 5v4g with the amps with new components. didn’t have an issue with my 5D3 which has new filter caps either.
[EDIT again]
one of my 5V4G tubes shows very low B+. the 60hz hum came from it I believe
there are more and better info for 5vg and 5y3 rectifiers on the gearpage.net
I hook up tweed champ, deluxe, and m-track 2×2 together while jamming with youtube. 5v4g sounds still alive with this stereo and digital setup to me. but, m-track 2×2 is cheap and sharing the one single full bandwidth with usb and instrument at the same time. it sounds good while using only one of them. it sucks when the knob is at the center.
it’s the knob on m-track 2×2. don’t buy it if you want to use your guitar amps as monitor speakers while playing guitar through the direct input. maybe I’m just doing this wrong.
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