“Some say the world will end in fire, Some say in ice. From what I’ve tasted of desire I hold with those who favor fire. But if it had to perish twice, I think I know enough of hate to say that for destruction ice Is also great and would suffice.” Robert Frost (1874-1963)
The end of the world may come slowly, but it’s inevitable. Our sun, exhausting the hydrogen-fuel of the core, will successively burn the outer layers and doing so becoming hotter and expanding in size. In estimated 7,59 billion years a red giant will engulf the earth – or whatever still be left over of the once blue planet.
Already in 1,6 billion years the hotter sun will evaporate the oceans, and plate tectonics, whiteout enough water acting as lubricant in subduction zones, will stop. Without plate tectonics erosion will become a dominant factor. The increased radiation of sun will modify the chemical composition of earth’s atmosphere. The light hydrogen will also “evaporate” into space and the heavy oxygen will accumulate on the surface of earth. In this denser atmosphere rare, but strong, rainstorms will cause large mudflows in the last mountain ranges. Mountains will be eroded and basins filled with sediments and earth’s surface will become a plain desert. The iron in the sediments will react with the oxygen and earth’s colors will change into a permanent red, like planet Mars today. In the dense atmosphere temperatures will still rise, dissolving gypsum and other sulphur-bearing rocks. The free sulphur will react with the traces of vapor left in the atmosphere and it will rain sulphuric acid from earth’s sky.
In 7,5 billion years the expanding sun will gravitationally lock earth and one side will now face always towards sun. In the sunny side the temperature of earth’s surface will rise to 2.200°C, on the dark side of earth the temperature, without an isolating atmosphere, could plunge to -240°. Basalt, one of the most common rocks on earth, melts at 1.100-1.200°C, on the sunshine side it will be so hot that a molten magma-ocean forms… and it will start to evaporate. Between the hot side and cool side of earth the evaporated elements, like iron and silica, will form rain and like today snowflakes form a landscape composed of snow, iron- sodium-, magnesium- and potassium-flakes will form an eerie landscape composed of these elements. Rock-glaciers will descend from the mountains to the shores and icebergs of rock will float into the magma-ocean.
Excerpt – Read the complete article here: https://blogs.scientificamerican.com/history-of-geology/how-it-all-ends-8230/
Researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Harvard Medical School have teamed to develop a novel tattoo ink that can show your body’s health changes.
The novel ink consists of biosensors that react to changes in the tissue fluid and make the skin an “interactive display”. So far, researchers have investigated four biosensors that respond to three types of body information, changing their colors.
As the pH-value increases, the color changes from violet to pink, an increasing sodium content is seen as a bright green under UV light, and blue becomes brown when the glucose level increases.
This animation from a video of the researchers shows how such a tattoo might look like:
Especially for diabetics, a tattoo with ink that reacts to an altered glucose level could be useful. They have to prick their finger with a small needle if they want to measure their blood sugar level – usually several times a day. This procedure can be painful in the long run and can lead to small scars.
You can read more about this innovative technology here: https://www.media.mit.edu/projects/d-Abyss/overview/
while my 5F1 project is not loud enough with Jensen 10J11 speaker, I tried a few different 6v6 tubes for the last few days.
I noticed Ken-Rad 6v6GT/G tubes are louder than the other tubes. and the texture with this tube is acoustic and strong.
I don’t see the difference between RCA, GE, and Sylvania 6v6gt tubes that much. GE Canada 6v6GT is a bit brighter than 50’s stock tweed RCA and 60’s Sylvania but, Ken-Rad 6v6GT/G sounds way different to them
Steve Winwood + Eric Clapton
found this nicely built 5F1 with 10″ WGS speaker in Mergili cabinet on Ebay while I was in search of the parts for my first 5F1 build. grabbed it off for very good price and I’m changing the components and wires one by one like the filter caps, bypass caps, speaker wires along with the plug.
I think the speaker wires and Amperex 12ax7 changed way more than the capacitors. I’m waiting for yellow and red Jupiter 0.022 caps as well. an A/B comparison video on youtube was very interesting. and red one looks very close to the original Astron firecracker.
there are few tweed amp inspired cabinets around. and it’s the first cab I like except for the original ones. this cabinet sings with WGS ceramic speaker. I’ve been biased toward vintage Jensen alnico speakers so far. and this speaker changed it a bit
the orange filter caps are Roederstein 33uf 450v which replaced the stock caps from the kit. I didn’t know the limit of 5y3 and was brave enough to put two of them on it. then realized the rectifier was too hot and went to 33+10+10.
the first 33uf right next to the rectifier seems fine so far. I’ve tried on the original 5D3 and 5F1 without an issue before. this very capacitor is one of the caps I trust most
this 5F1 is dead quiet and the filament wiring is a bit different to the original champ. I’m trying to figuring out it. nothing is easy with the electric stuff even 5F1 is this simple.
I’ve got some NOS Sprague black beauty caps 15 years ago and tried it on this amp. I expected something vintage with them. but I’ve learned they are not useful as the coupling caps. they were good as the guitar tone caps. but they dramatically reduced the output volume regardless of the values. realized why my 18watt replica’s output volume was that low 15 years ago today. I’m still wondering why anyway.
[update] the sprague caps I put on this amp had twice high capacitance than the marking. I couldn’t find any 0.02 and tried 0.03 but they actually were over 0.05. higher capacitance changes the frequency and reduces the output volume as I learned from them. and NOS caps need time to break in. they sound getting louder for the last few days
I’ve been using this 239 bulb after the factory GE #47 bulb went dead. 239 is same 6.3V and the bayonet base is identical to #47. mine came from Westinghouse as I remember. and found more from Tung-sol, Sylvania, Chicago Miniature, and more
239 rated 2.268 watt while 47 is 0.945 watt according to this web page. I’m wondering if I can go with this bulb. but didn’t have an issue yet
I made this list from Asso_man!’s RC10talk thread a couple of years ago. and just noticed the file I uploaded has gone somwhere.
the scanned images are here
Yokomo YZ10 Pavidis Part list #1 & #2
a member here recommended me 5751 for tweed deluxe v1 socket. and I’m impressed with this setup. I grabbed this off ebay for $32 even the kind seller sent me an extra GE 5751.
I’d say it’s way better than stock 12ay7 and 12at7 on v1.
and 5751 on 5F1 reduces the output volume a bit. but still a good sounding tube
I dropped by a friend’s place to pick up my big red bum fuzz and hang around. then I dug this EH germanium OD out of a big plastic box.
I’m not sure what this NTK275 exactly is. but the same one shows up on ebay. and I guess it came from 60’s or 70’s
It’s the pile I dug out my bum fuzz and this germanium OD. I know few more guys with the same symptom. falling in love with fuzz pedals. don’t worry. some of them have wives or girlfriends. not all of them of course.