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Those Britons have designed some real gems. This Jaguar was also my favorite car in the 90s and early 2000 years. It’s a monster but still a great car for the daily use on the streets. The Saleen S7 looks not much different.
i just googling Saleen S7 and it looks great tho. but that model dosen’t look heavy and strong like XJ220.
How about this rascal:
well, that bumper looks like ‘rascal’ haha i don’t even know that brand so i just googling and this one is kind of interesting tho.
A lot of excellent car manufacturers out there, but the Jaguar XJ220 will always be a timeless classic.
The funny part is, I liked to play Gran Turismo 2/3 (PS2) and I also used often the Jaguar aside of many more great cars. Now, all those cars evolved to oldtimers or classic cars which increased their value.
Take a look at this listing:
Then simply imagine a racing video game in VR.
I have emailed to dozens of electric part suppliers and messaged to ebay sellers for
V23084-C2001-A
and I noticed most of them are counterfeit. this seller looked legit with the picture of NOS Siemens relay. but it didn’t go well.
and it’s the the relays I got from this seller
The original Siemens, Tyco, TE connectivity relays have molded bottom with thick and strong lead pins. and, you can buy this counterfeit relay on alibaba.com or aliexpress.com for less $1 each
I’m talking to these two sellers for the original part. and one of them are running this web site
I do trust this guy and made a purchase from his ebay store
https://www.ebay.com/usr/bmwgm5?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754
also this seller has the original relay. but it’s V23084-C2002-A403
the only difference between A303 and A403 is the contact material. and C2002 is sensitive type works with less current as far as I know. I’ll try them both and will update
another seller sent me this picture. and it’s exactly the relay I’m after. you can see the pattern on the bottom but even many of the counterfeit have the patterns as well. but please see the pins carefully all the soldering pins are thick and look strong enough.
I’m ordering a pair from this seller who sent me the picture
https://www.ebay.com/itm/183304411194
it took a couple of months to figure out which is the original and finally found these 2 sellers which I trust on ebay.
I’ll update when they arrive
and please someone advice me if V23084-C2001-A303 can be replaced with
V23084-C2002-A403, or V23084-C2001-A403
it seems the nature of this tube. I’ve been using a few Bendix 5y3gt with Fender tweed amps. and it’s my first try with their 6v6gt.
did a simple job for a friend. he has some extra 50’s Jensen speakers and wanted to use them with this GT40 amp.
he told me GT40 has mono and stereo output mode. so, we decided to leave one of the 6.5″ speakers as it was. then put a long thread 1/4 jack on the other output.
the only place I found for the internal/external switch was the inside of the bass reflex vent on the back. the back panel itself is too thick to attach the switch.
I just tried this from a hunch while I barely understand electric circuits.
Bum fuzz was made after B&M fuzz. it came from Tonebender Jumbo, and Jumbo came from Big muff. and they are not far from Tonebender MK3. it means this pedal would work with Germanium transistors.
Sola Sound make 3 different versions of Bum Fuzz units with BC184, BC549C, and ZTX109. BC184 and ZTX109 versions look same to each other except ZTX109 version comes with better and older electric components. BC549C comes with cheap ass version. and, it has 3 of different resistors and 2 of electrolytic capacitors at least. I replaced them with 33k, 100, and 100k resistors an 2 of 0.1uf fixed caps.
OC139, OC140, OC141 are NPN germanium transistors for computers (yes, the computer) from late 60’s. They are period correct for late 60’s and early 70’s fuzz I guess. and, have the similar Hfe range as well. most of them I found on ebay.co.uk had 100 to 200 Hfe range. some are less than 100, and some of them are over 200.
It’s the shop I found ZTX109 and OC139 transistors
And, this pedal sounds great with OC139. I don’t see any reason to try a different setup anymore. this modified Germanium Bum fuzz unit has overdrive to medium or leather high gain fuzz range now. somewhat sounds like MK2 and feels like MK3.
It was like this a couple of months ago
brought this home to change the filter caps for a friend. my favorite tweed deluxe is 5D3. but love this one too
I’ve been using this 239 bulb after the factory GE #47 bulb went dead. 239 is same 6.3V and the bayonet base is identical to #47. mine came from Westinghouse as I remember. and found more from Tung-sol, Sylvania, Chicago Miniature, and more
239 rated 2.268 watt while 47 is 0.945 watt according to this web page. I’m wondering if I can go with this bulb. but didn’t have an issue yet
https://www.bulbtown.com/6_2_VOLT_LIGHT_BULBS_s/380.htm
and there are sellers have #1847 which is the long-life version of #47 on ebay. even their pricing are fair. it’s a thread about #47 and #1847
didn’t know Jensen had Concert series with ceramic magnets. this PM-1002 sounds more like Jensen 10J11 than WGS Veteran ceramic to me. even I believed it was an alnico speaker when I grabbed this off ebay for $69 plus shipping. then googled what Syntox-6 was after a week playing this in my 5F1 project. a bit disappointed while figuring out what the magnet was. but still happy with this NOS Jensen with the original box. and it is way louder than Jensen 10J11 alnico speaker as I expected.
I’ve tried Mullard and a few different 12ax7 tubes with it. and going to stick with GE black plate 5751 for a while.
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