5y3gt 354v
5r4 365v
5u4 373v
5v4g 384v
en 5F1 Champ B+ voltage with 5y3, 5u4, 5r4, and 5v4g rectifier tubes
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I dropped by a friend’s place to pick up my big red bum fuzz and hang around. then I dug this EH germanium OD out of a big plastic box.
I’m not sure what this NTK275 exactly is. but the same one shows up on ebay. and I guess it came from 60’s or 70’s
It’s the pile I dug out my bum fuzz and this germanium OD. I know few more guys with the same symptom. falling in love with fuzz pedals. don’t worry. some of them have wives or girlfriends. not all of them of course.
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I’d say 50’s ABR-1 bridge is better in every aspect.
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purchased Adzam branded Heerlen 12ax7 and Brussels 6v6gt from from this ebay seller. they were NOS and the pricing was very good indeed.
https://www.ebay.com/str/euro-moments?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
he sent me this tube puller. this silicon tool designed to grab the preamp tubes and the the tubes like EL84. you still need to hold the tube using this puller. and it feels easy may protect the letters on the tube
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MR-4BX series has been produced for only a couple of years. the first version came at ’06 and replaced with B-Max4 which was different from previous yoke buggies at ’08.
MR-4BX series is like the last blood of traditional Yokomo to me. and I see the same blood on Jconcepts BJ4.
a few prototypes on Japanese magazines were not far from MX-4 YMP until 2004. they put a slipper clutch, moved the motor mount forward, put B4 rear arms and losi style steering knuckles, and so on.. through early ’06
my friend who has been working with Yokomo and other japanese rc companies told me their CNC machine was never stopped for a couple of years to make new prototype parts. I know it never stopped before MR-4BX. but more than a few MR-4BX prototypes have spotted on Yatabe arena for years.
I have managed to get a nicely used Worlds edition last month. and took some pics with my factory edition. they both came at ’07.
the differences between them are main chassis, F/R shock towers, top deck(s), steering, rear bulkhead, and a few misc parts
Front End
MR-4BX Worlds came with a new camber mount which allows only the longest upper rod setup. also the steering is different than previous 2 versions
this new camber mount can be installed on older versions as well
the original and Factory edition’s front tower provide 6 points of upper rod mount position. the tower is compatible with the original through Worlds. and the inside position provides pretty much same result as Worlds’ front camber mount
Steering
the steerings are quite different. I hope I can feel the difference while I’m running this Worlds edition. but, didn’t have a chance so far.
this steering was introduced with MX-4. prototype MX-4 still had older servo saver. and the first time I saw this was in MX-4 kit.
but the difference is the angle. this steering system on MR-4BX is tilted for better handling.
Chassis
this 2 piece structure was came from the prototype and applied to the production models through the 1st and Factory edition. but Worlds edition came with 1 piece chassis
MR-4BX Worlds came with this 1 piece chassis with 2 extra holes for new steering system. please ignore the stainless screws on the Factory chassis. I’d go back to the black steel screws.
Top Deck
the top deck, now it covers the rear belt. and new camber mount is here
Factory edition had 2 piece top deck like the original version. but the rear piece was improved that older one has clearance problem with the belt
the rear top deck from the ’06 original version
Rear Shock Mounting
there were a few guys tried this before Worlds edition came. the shocks were moved to the back end of the car.
also they put a camber mount like the front end
the original and Factory edition had same suspension geometry. the shocks can be moved to the back end with this stock mount plus a few tricks
the new aluminum part which holds the the shock tower is changed along with new bulkhead and camber mount
related links
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewbx/index.html
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/review501x/page08.html
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Steve Winwood + Eric Clapton
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I’m running this small version of Buggy Champ – Rough Rider for years. yes, it’s small and cannot run on the bumpy tracks.
and I watched it’s not bad on the the rally circuit where I’m running my old RC10 and 834B runners.
I started from finding a better motor for this 1/16 Buggy Champ. sport-tuned motor from tamiya was the most easy to find. but it turned out not much better than the stock motor.
they released a better sport-tuned SPT recently. and, I was told it was good. I’m thinking getting one at some point.
this tamtech champ came with the plastic spring dampers. buggy champ runs like tamiya grasshopper with the stock shocks. actually it runs better than grasshopper.
google found me Losi Mini-T shocks weeks or months ago. an I’m running with the shocks. losi shocks turned this tiny champ into a racer.
Losi shocks are slightly shorter than stock ones. and this length is better on the tracks and my living room.
Losi front shocks have almost twice bigger stroke with a dead center. and, this simple trick with shrink tube is working great.
then I came back to the motor.
a friened who is an expert on the small motors told me to find “Speed 300 6V” motor from Graupner or GWS.
Speed 300 on ebay.de
ElectricFly T-370
but the shipping charge for one single motor was overkill. I found this for less than $10 include the postage from somewhere.
this E-sky 370 motor is cheap and can be found everywhere. it has this 1/10 style endbell as you can see. the size is identical to the stock 370 motor.
the torque and speed are great for the scale. and it turned out this motor needs too much juice for the size. I might need more or better batteries.
I ran with this setup for a while, then I went to Tamtech SPT motor and new shell. SPT is much better than older sport tuned motor in every way. I have brushless in my mind too. but the price is an issue for me.
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My interest in fuzz pedal came from JMI Tone Bender III reissue which belongs to a friend. this pedal has 3 of OC75 glass tube transistors.
And, unfortunately, My Sola Sound Bum Fuzz came with 3 of NPN transistors while OC75 is PNP type. then found this web page with germanium and silicone transistor lists
http://vintageradio.me.uk/info/radiocon_data_trans.htm
There are 26 of germanium NPN transistors from the data sheets
ASY28, ASY29
2N388, 2N388A
2N1302, 2N1304, 2N1306, 2N1308,
OC139, OC140, OC141
AD161
AC187
NKT713, NKT773, NKT774, NKT781
2SD72
Black glass tube NPN transistors are OC139, OC140, OC141 from them.
OC75 is like this according to this web page on alltransistors.com
Type Designator: OC75 (PNP)
Maximum Collector Power Dissipation (Pc): 0.125 W
Maximum Collector-Base Voltage |Vcb|: 20 V
Maximum Collector-Emitter Voltage |Vce|: 20 V
Maximum Emitter-Base Voltage |Veb|: 10 V
Maximum Collector Current |Ic max|: 0.01 A
Transition Frequency (ft): 0.1 MHz
Collector Capacitance (Cc): 50 pF
Forward Current Transfer Ratio (hFE), MIN: 55
And, for OC139, OC140 is
Vcb: 20 V / 20 V
Vce: 20 V / 20V
Forward Current Transfer Ratio (hFE), MIN: 40 / 75
I’m going to try OC139. simply beccause, OC139 is cheaper than OC140 on ebay. and I’m wondering how Transition Frequency differences work with Fuzz. I’ll update in a few weeks
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old Philips caps from Holland factory and German Roederstien are my favorite for filter caps and cathode bypass caps.
I cut the aluminum cans and put Philips caps inside of 70’s Sprague paper sleeve caps.
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