didn’t expect any noticeable difference between them. but there are actually. Sennheiser 1/8″ to 1/4″ phone plug adapter sounds way better
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they were on ebay and the price was not bad. it was pretty good actually. these .02uf 600v 50’s Astron Blue point capacitors are for my original and project 5F1 champ amps. two of them for the 5F1 project. and the rest of them for the original ’59 5F1 champ in a case I need to replace them like 50 years from now.
I’ve found this amp on reverb for a friend. he was in search of a Deluxe Reverb for a while then I came across this on a month ago.
I wanted to get him one with the original components and the speaker. it had an ugly red speaker when it came to me. and we were lucky to find the original Jensen C12Q with a like-new cone. the cones are the characters more than the magnet to me.
the speaker came from ’66 fender amp. it’s period correct and sounds great after my speaker tech re-glue the voice coil and damper. there was a play between the frame and the magnet. he fixed it of course. I love vintage C12Q as much as vintage Jensen P12Q and P12N
needed a longer AC cord for my 5D3 and tried E3462-C cord. this cord noticeably reduces noise even while it has more amps and computers share the same AC and audio source.
then I replaced all the AC cord with this for my tweed amps. the most dramatic change comes to ’59 5F1 which was quiet alone but it cannot be hooked up with AB box. even 60hz hum was loud when it shared the same AC power source without AB box. ground lift didn’t work either. it just shifted the noise frequency
this seller has the cable. but, only one of three was correct. two of them were E3462 without C. they are metal shielded and the noise was louder than 2 prong cord.
found another seller had the correct cable. and finally all of my tweed amps are dead quiet at any circumstance with E3462-C. even there is no difference between the original and modern 5F1 with or without the center tab.
and this typical ac cord wasn’t that bad for 5D3 but there is a huge difference with 5F1. E3462-C is still way better for 5D3 as well.
(Picture by Alexander Gerst from the ISS)
We take good old O2 for granted. People are always going on about how early Earth was “perfect” for life. A perfect hell maybe. No ozone layer, no oxygen, extreme heat, an abundance of highly corrosive chemicals in the atmosphere including sulfur and methane.
Much like found on Titan the largest of the moons of Jupiter today. It was a literal red sky hell. With all of that methane and sulfur, it must have smelled like a frat house on chili and hard boiled egg night. So, the Earth was devoid of oxygen in the beginning but as I said there was a metric butt-load of methane and sulfur in the oceans.
So, little single-celled organisms developed that lived on methane and sulfur. After a while, the sulfur level dropped and the methane level did as well. No one is sure why. There still was little oxygen. So some more little critters evolved which produced oxygen called “cyanobacteria”.
It took a billion years for these critters to terraform our planet for the evolution of animals and more complex plants. To this day all plants incorporate these ancient cyanobacteria into their cells in structures known as a “cyanoplasts”. You see life itself changed the planet to support life.
This is what life does.
More informations to this topic: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Oxygenation_Event
old Philips caps from Holland factory and German Roederstien are my favorite for filter caps and cathode bypass caps.
I cut the aluminum cans and put Philips caps inside of 70’s Sprague paper sleeve caps.
I’ve been using this 239 bulb after the factory GE #47 bulb went dead. 239 is same 6.3V and the bayonet base is identical to #47. mine came from Westinghouse as I remember. and found more from Tung-sol, Sylvania, Chicago Miniature, and more
239 rated 2.268 watt while 47 is 0.945 watt according to this web page. I’m wondering if I can go with this bulb. but didn’t have an issue yet