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I usually put large wings for the race. but still enjoy to run with neon wings from Yokomo and Associated. actually they were made by Yokomo and were stock wings for Yoke 4WDs and a few of Japanese version RC10s. I’v been searching them for months after my rc buddy broke my pink wing on YZ10. then found them a few weeks ago. it’s pretty hard to pick up one for my RC10
One of the methods putting modern 2.2″ wheels on RC10 is hex adapters like this
Minsoo, AKA pargu2000 has finished this for 1/4″ regular RC10 axles a couple of days ago. the adapter is an exact replica of 90’s HPI product
here are some sources for 2.2″ hex wheels available at this moment. some of them are listed as 1/12 truggy wheels. and, they are exact match to 1/10 2.2″ buggy wheels.
TM-49Y (40849), Yellow
the wheels above are here from the manufacturer website. the wheels are same and sold under different name worldwide.
and Hobao sells similar wheels in black and white.
11282W white, and 11282B for black
HPI still makes 2.2″ Super Star wheels for 1/8 nitro sedans. and they have the right offset and size for RC10 and old buggies
and, try this if you want the matched front. we used to do this for 2WD and 4WD front at 90’s. and still it works.
I like this. m_vice is filled with great ideas always
I’ll keep updating more wheels and mods infos
got these nice and useful pictures and scanned images from the famous Time Tunnel guy, Tomoyuki Tanaka
Time Tunnel http://www93.sakura.ne.jp/~time-tunnel/ (closed)
new address is http://www.time-tunnel.jp/
his blog http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/tanatwo1970/57932150.html
thank you so much Tanaka !
A&L seemed to make the trailing arms from Kyosho tomahawk and scorpion buggies. the shape and dimensions are almost identical to Kyosho’s which were made from magnesium. A&L is aluminum
put A&L on Kyosho. very close to each other
I thought that I could put Kyosho arms on my A&L RC10. but it didn’t work ‘cuase the arms are slightly narrow for A&L arm mounts
shock mounting is different too.
put dyed RPM tranny and right tires for race. it’s close to the end except for the chassis stiffener
got 3 of them. and have been trying to post for last 12 hours. I can write or edit something after I changed my editor to old version. you can change this setting under your dashboard – settings – basic – global settings. there are any helpful answer on blogger help forum
got an epoxy sheet for making chassis stiffener. but I have changed my mind and made a new rear tower for 1.18 shocks
the first hole I drilled was on the wrong place. threw this up. and started make another one
it’s the result. also I put extra holes for my incomplete shock mounts. (on the black lines)
A&L, my own, modified original, and the original
actually re-drilled original tower was not that bad. but I wanted 2~3mm bigger shock stroke. and still wanted to keep the body uncut
the result is pretty good as you can see. it has long enough wheel travel. and the body is still safe
I love A&L setup with their original graphite chassis. but failed to get one off ebay. then, I started this project. got a pair of arms, and another set of conversion kit. and finally got a NIB fiberglass kit. have enough bullets for building a few runners now
there are few nice build pictures on the web. here are some nice examples
David, AKA Asso_man!
Rich, AKA RichieRich
m_vice’s build with some nice ideas and custom parts
my project was started with a of pair of arm which was taken from RCtech board. the arms have longer posts for A&L chassis as you can see. then got a converted RC10 from my friend Al. the arms are identical of course. only the differences are mounting posts and the plates
I saved the arms with longer posts for my later complete A&L build. and made 2 slots to mount the conversion plates. actually the chassis was the first step of this project
it looks pretty much finished. and I started to strip out the dyed and roughly cut shocks mounts
I wasn’t sure if I could use the shock mounts when I got them. but they turned to be clean and white. then I drilled extra holes on the original tower to put the parts on the right places with modern 1.18 shock bodies and 1.02 shafts
and I got this built and almost finished
I can still use Turbo Mirage without cutting ’cause I put re-drilled original rear tower. even the wing tubes as well. I’ll try Protech and more later