• RC10 – Team Associated 30 years of world champion DNA

  • #ThrowbackThursday #WeAreAE

    게시: 팀 어쏘시에이티드 2018년 12월 6일 목요일

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  • another ’91 RPM shock tower for RC10

  • A while back, I made my own shock tower for ’91 RPM worlds with my friend. see this


    I got a couple of races with this the shock tower, and I noticed it was pretty cool.
    then, I asked to RC10talk forum member, Jay Dub if he could make more like this one ’cause I saw he made a very nice and precise RC10 front tower with his own design.

    and this one came here! thanks to Jay Dub


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  • Lohas wheels

  • will add more pics later















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  • great A&L info from Time Tunnel

  • got these nice and useful pictures and scanned images from the famous Time Tunnel guy, Tomoyuki Tanaka

    Time Tunnel http://www93.sakura.ne.jp/~time-tunnel/ (closed)
    new address is http://www.time-tunnel.jp/
    his blog http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/tanatwo1970/57932150.html

    thank you so much Tanaka !

















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  • A&L RC10 #1 parts III

  • put dyed RPM tranny and right tires for race. it’s close to the end except for the chassis stiffener




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  • RC10 A&L trailing arms project #1

  • I love A&L setup with their original graphite chassis. but failed to get one off ebay. then, I started this project. got a pair of arms, and another set of conversion kit. and finally got a NIB fiberglass kit. have enough bullets for building a few runners now

    there are few nice build pictures on the web. here are some nice examples

    David, AKA Asso_man!

    Tanaka, the famous Time Tunnel guy

    Rich, AKA RichieRich

    m_vice’s build with some nice ideas and custom parts

    my project was started with a of pair of arm which was taken from RCtech board. the arms have longer posts for A&L chassis as you can see. then got a converted RC10 from my friend Al. the arms are identical of course. only the differences are mounting posts and the plates



    I saved the arms with longer posts for my later complete A&L build. and made 2 slots to mount the conversion plates. actually the chassis was the first step of this project






    it looks pretty much finished. and I started to strip out the dyed and roughly cut shocks mounts

    I wasn’t sure if I could use the shock mounts when I got them. but they turned to be clean and white. then I drilled extra holes on the original tower to put the parts on the right places with modern 1.18 shock bodies and 1.02 shafts




    and I got this built and almost finished

    I can still use Turbo Mirage without cutting ’cause I put re-drilled original rear tower. even the wing tubes as well. I’ll try Protech and more later


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  • some nice action pics from race 23rd April

  • met a nice guy with a giant white lens at the track. I ran 2 RC10s with one body. and he sent me these nice pictures. thanks to my new RC buddy






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  • RC10 front shock tower for .89 shocks

  • it’s my main runner with the custom shock tower for .89 shock bodies and .71 shafts. it was designed by rc10talk forum member aeiou, Paul and made by Fibre-Lyte. actually it   was designed for .80 shaft. but I put .71 shafts and I believe my choice is right

    these epoxy towers were designed and made by Jay Dub who was Schumacher team driver at 90’s. I prefer epoxy than carbon fiber for some reasons. and this new tower is exactly what I want


    put .71 shaft too. and I’ll try .80 shaft later. I need to put 1.18 rear shocks with this setup. and will go to 1.32 rear shocks with .80 front shafts

    the top position is exactly same with stock shock towers and shocks. also it’s identical to B2/B3’s

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  • RC10 ’91 Worlds #2

  • got another set of RPM arms from ebay seller Jim. and put them on my custom worlds. maybe ’94 worlds shows better response on the track. but I can’t stop to run ’91 worlds. so I needed one more



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  • redesigned ’91 shock tower – phase II, actually final

  • new ’91 shock tower phase II

    sent my tower to a custom parts shop for duplicating with different materials a couple of weeks ago. and got the result today. the shape is pretty much close to my original



    update: they forgot to send me the original. and I got mine today. I still like mine than the towers from the shop. but their works was not that bad except for the nose brace holes



    found a minor problem with this tower from the machining shop. nose brace holes are not wide enough and need to be widen. Ok, I got a file here

    also it need to be trimmed like this

    and, here goes my final version of ’91 worlds




    it was like this 3 years ago. was still nice. but not much as today’s

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  • another RC10 Worlds

  • Still need a front shock tower for .89 shocks. but pretty much finished. more runners are here







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  • playing with Hot Laps

  • then back to normal. thanks Jason
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  • new shock tower design for ’91 RPM RC10

  • ’91 RPM RC10 runs great on certain tracks with it’s long arms. but never liked to cut the body for fitting the front shock tower. so, I tried a new shock tower weeks ago

    it’s the typical ’91 front shock tower. and the body has to be cut with this setup
    my rc buddy drew this during his T2 buggy project. you can see why we like this design. don’t have to trim the body. but still got a problem. and I moved to the 2nd design


    and the result was like this. the left one got the shock towers from the drawing. I ran my ’91 RC10 with the tower at the track. and didn’t get any issue. a few more pictures are here.



    here goes another drawing we started after I came back from the track. it’s a mixture from the original PRM’s and the 1st version, plus some tweaks. this one is the one in my mind.
    and the idea came true like this




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  • Flames

  • got a new shell for tamtech buggy champ.

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  • an idea for RC10 body mounting

  • my buddy showed me this way. and I tried myself. only the reason he did this was to save the body post. and I think it will save the body itself from damage due to the body post. we know the cracks around the post. the job was quite simple with a hair dryer.


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  • RC10 got pink wheels from tamiya

  • Got the wheels and tried on my ’91 RPM runner. I didn’t cut the rear end of the chassis. so the offset is right for none-offset wheels. the metric adapters are coming too.




    and after


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  • Korean Vintage Race 2011 the 1st round winner

  • won the 1st at 4WD, and 2nd at 2WD. I still have 3 more races remaining this year. and the start was not bad. the motor was limited to 540 till last year to protect fragile tamiya buggies. the rule have changed on the motor. and it’s 23T (=13.5T) now. and they made the “insect class” for grasshopper and it’s friends. it was a great fun to watch insect class race. I rent my grasshopper to my friend. and he got the 3rd on the class


    RPM ’91 conversion on FL tub. it’s one of my favorite buggies.  the track is narrow. so I put this reversible ESC for 2WD class. the steering came from my ’94 worlds which got MIP steering after I took the original steering off

    Tires: front Jconcepts rib
    rear Proline bowtie
    Motor: Yokomo M stock 23T
    ESC: Novak Rooster 12T

    ’94 YZ10 with a few mods. the winter is very cold here. and the yellow and soft 834B steering worked great. my favorite setup with yokomo buggies is 5/64″ thrust balls like AE cars. larger 6 (or 7) balls can make smooth and durable rear diff than tiny 8 of 1/16″ thrust balls in the kits can do

    Tires: front Losi Blockhead
    rear Losi Bar Codes
    Motor: Speed Passion V3 13.5T
    ESC: LRP Sphere comp. 2007 edition

    maybe it’s the best trick for the race.
    hot pack rules!

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  • handcrafted RC10 battery holder

  • my friend made me this nice battery holder


    the buttons made from apple tree

    more pictures from the work




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  • add-on tuber for RC10

  • one of my friends. actually a nephew of my friend made this tube frame for me






    it’s so heavy. but it runs not that bad with a mabuch 540 motor.


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  • DIY Kydex bumper

  • I’ve been looking for white bumpers for my Yokomo and RC10s after I saw this picture on time tunnel.


    got nothing. but I got a Kydex sheet today from my friend Aaron. it’s the place we got the sheet from


    it’s 1/8″ sheet which has the same thickness with the original yokomo material.

    the part # is 8650K113
    white, 1/8″ thick, 12″ x 12″, and cool

    they usually use a electric oven for DIY kydex job, but I put it in a boiling water for a minute or so. and put it on the original bumper then pressed.
    it was quite easy to bend. also the sawing was, but the trimming job wasn’t to me. but I noticed I got wrong idea about bending. all the bumpers I made were slightly crooked and need to be re-bent. the bent material goes back to the original flat shape so easy in a boiling water.

    the bumpers on 834B, 870C, and, Works 91/93 are slightly different but, basically same. and, you can make more than 12 bumpers with one 12″ x 12″ sheet

    it works for RC10 as well

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