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A while back, I made my own shock tower for ’91 RPM worlds with my friend. see this
I got a couple of races with this the shock tower, and I noticed it was pretty cool.
then, I asked to RC10talk forum member, Jay Dub if he could make more like this one ’cause I saw he made a very nice and precise RC10 front tower with his own design.
and this one came here! thanks to Jay Dub
will add more pics later
got these nice and useful pictures and scanned images from the famous Time Tunnel guy, Tomoyuki Tanaka
Time Tunnel http://www93.sakura.ne.jp/~time-tunnel/ (closed)
new address is http://www.time-tunnel.jp/
his blog http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/tanatwo1970/57932150.html
thank you so much Tanaka !
put dyed RPM tranny and right tires for race. it’s close to the end except for the chassis stiffener
I love A&L setup with their original graphite chassis. but failed to get one off ebay. then, I started this project. got a pair of arms, and another set of conversion kit. and finally got a NIB fiberglass kit. have enough bullets for building a few runners now
there are few nice build pictures on the web. here are some nice examples
David, AKA Asso_man!
Rich, AKA RichieRich
m_vice’s build with some nice ideas and custom parts
my project was started with a of pair of arm which was taken from RCtech board. the arms have longer posts for A&L chassis as you can see. then got a converted RC10 from my friend Al. the arms are identical of course. only the differences are mounting posts and the plates
I saved the arms with longer posts for my later complete A&L build. and made 2 slots to mount the conversion plates. actually the chassis was the first step of this project
it looks pretty much finished. and I started to strip out the dyed and roughly cut shocks mounts
I wasn’t sure if I could use the shock mounts when I got them. but they turned to be clean and white. then I drilled extra holes on the original tower to put the parts on the right places with modern 1.18 shock bodies and 1.02 shafts
and I got this built and almost finished
I can still use Turbo Mirage without cutting ’cause I put re-drilled original rear tower. even the wing tubes as well. I’ll try Protech and more later
met a nice guy with a giant white lens at the track. I ran 2 RC10s with one body. and he sent me these nice pictures. thanks to my new RC buddy
it’s my main runner with the custom shock tower for .89 shock bodies and .71 shafts. it was designed by rc10talk forum member aeiou, Paul and made by Fibre-Lyte. actually it was designed for .80 shaft. but I put .71 shafts and I believe my choice is right
these epoxy towers were designed and made by Jay Dub who was Schumacher team driver at 90’s. I prefer epoxy than carbon fiber for some reasons. and this new tower is exactly what I want
put .71 shaft too. and I’ll try .80 shaft later. I need to put 1.18 rear shocks with this setup. and will go to 1.32 rear shocks with .80 front shafts
the top position is exactly same with stock shock towers and shocks. also it’s identical to B2/B3’s
got another set of RPM arms from ebay seller Jim. and put them on my custom worlds. maybe ’94 worlds shows better response on the track. but I can’t stop to run ’91 worlds. so I needed one more
sent my tower to a custom parts shop for duplicating with different materials a couple of weeks ago. and got the result today. the shape is pretty much close to my original
update: they forgot to send me the original. and I got mine today. I still like mine than the towers from the shop. but their works was not that bad except for the nose brace holes
found a minor problem with this tower from the machining shop. nose brace holes are not wide enough and need to be widen. Ok, I got a file here
also it need to be trimmed like this
it was like this 3 years ago. was still nice. but not much as today’s
Still need a front shock tower for .89 shocks. but pretty much finished. more runners are here
’91 RPM RC10 runs great on certain tracks with it’s long arms. but never liked to cut the body for fitting the front shock tower. so, I tried a new shock tower weeks ago
and the result was like this. the left one got the shock towers from the drawing. I ran my ’91 RC10 with the tower at the track. and didn’t get any issue. a few more pictures are here.
my buddy showed me this way. and I tried myself. only the reason he did this was to save the body post. and I think it will save the body itself from damage due to the body post. we know the cracks around the post. the job was quite simple with a hair dryer.
Got the wheels and tried on my ’91 RPM runner. I didn’t cut the rear end of the chassis. so the offset is right for none-offset wheels. the metric adapters are coming too.
won the 1st at 4WD, and 2nd at 2WD. I still have 3 more races remaining this year. and the start was not bad. the motor was limited to 540 till last year to protect fragile tamiya buggies. the rule have changed on the motor. and it’s 23T (=13.5T) now. and they made the “insect class” for grasshopper and it’s friends. it was a great fun to watch insect class race. I rent my grasshopper to my friend. and he got the 3rd on the class
RPM ’91 conversion on FL tub. it’s one of my favorite buggies. the track is narrow. so I put this reversible ESC for 2WD class. the steering came from my ’94 worlds which got MIP steering after I took the original steering off
Tires: front Jconcepts rib
rear Proline bowtie
Motor: Yokomo M stock 23T
ESC: Novak Rooster 12T
’94 YZ10 with a few mods. the winter is very cold here. and the yellow and soft 834B steering worked great. my favorite setup with yokomo buggies is 5/64″ thrust balls like AE cars. larger 6 (or 7) balls can make smooth and durable rear diff than tiny 8 of 1/16″ thrust balls in the kits can do
Tires: front Losi Blockhead
rear Losi Bar Codes
Motor: Speed Passion V3 13.5T
ESC: LRP Sphere comp. 2007 edition
maybe it’s the best trick for the race.
hot pack rules!
my friend made me this nice battery holder
the buttons made from apple tree
one of my friends. actually a nephew of my friend made this tube frame for me
it’s so heavy. but it runs not that bad with a mabuch 540 motor.
I’ve been looking for white bumpers for my Yokomo and RC10s after I saw this picture on time tunnel.
got nothing. but I got a Kydex sheet today from my friend Aaron. it’s the place we got the sheet from
it’s 1/8″ sheet which has the same thickness with the original yokomo material.
the part # is 8650K113
white, 1/8″ thick, 12″ x 12″, and cool
they usually use a electric oven for DIY kydex job, but I put it in a boiling water for a minute or so. and put it on the original bumper then pressed.
it was quite easy to bend. also the sawing was, but the trimming job wasn’t to me. but I noticed I got wrong idea about bending. all the bumpers I made were slightly crooked and need to be re-bent. the bent material goes back to the original flat shape so easy in a boiling water.
the bumpers on 834B, 870C, and, Works 91/93 are slightly different but, basically same. and, you can make more than 12 bumpers with one 12″ x 12″ sheet
it works for RC10 as well