• en Jconcepts BJ4 went to retro – update

  • This update has done a couple of years ago. and, I noticed I haven’t updated the pictures. here they are

    And, the leftover stock parts from BJ4 and B44

     

    #BJ4 #Jconcepts #B44 

    2 on March 7, 2019

    I wonder, did anybody already try to mount a high-def camera on these cars and connect it with a VR headset. And then you could drive like in a 1st person perspective from a video game. But I suppose the weight of the camera + extra battery will make the model slower?

    on March 7, 2019

    or like this

    on March 7, 2019

    people tried it and it’s common for the drones. on the RC cars, it’s not that popular just because the racing tracks are not that big. 

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  • RC10 – Team Associated 30 years of world champion DNA

  • #ThrowbackThursday #WeAreAE

    게시: 팀 어쏘시에이티드 2018년 12월 6일 목요일

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  • en ’88 YZ10 (870C) and Hotdog4 update

  • Yokomo 870C aka.1988 YZ10 build with

    White winter arms
    2mm fine pitch drive train
    Yokomo Hotlaps wheels
    Lightened diff cups
    Composite Craft shock towers
    Front aluminum bulkhead
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release kit
    SRS steering blocks

     

     
     

    Hotdog4 built with
    AE 870C shock towers
    MX4 rear aluminum CVD bones
    Academy molded wing
    Extended wheelbase with longer rear belt
    White Kydex bumper, homemade
    870C shocks with later shock ends for Works arms
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release
    Magnesium bulkheads

     
     

    Hodog4 has the copper springs now

     

    And, few more pics with C4 body

     

     

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  • NiMH cells delta peak

  • mostly, we are using Lipo batteries with some of LiFePO4 nowadays. and dealing with NiMH cells was not a pleasant experience too me.

    NiMH cells are more powerful and have bigger capacities than NiCd cells. but, NiCd cells require less maintenance as we know

    a friend found me 3 packs of NOS Panasonic 3000mAh batteries along with 1 pack of zapped cells. then I opened the packs and started to recycle them one by one.

    I never charged or discharged the cells individually before. and forgot the delta peak setting of NiMH cells. I didn’t like NiHH this much. I wanted to forget about them.

    I tried this document from Novak electronics which I trust
    http://teamnovak.com/file_download/1299721801bat_care_sheet.pdf
    it says do not discharge the cell below 0.9V each. it’s correct for the most of the NiMH cells. but few cells from GP and Intellect were optimised for 0V or less than 0.3V discharge. I got Panasonic cells here, and 0.9V limit is pretty much right for me

    and this documents says set the delta-peak to 4mV per cell, you can set it to 6mV if charging stops occasionally. and do not exceed 10mV per cell.

    I got Team, Race, Sport, and Zapped packs with difference prices. it’s around $130, $110, $90, $70 from the top

    The cells are more than 10 years old. so, I cannot trust the labels anymore, but it still was good to test them with the original data tags. and the tags worked somehow.

    higher grades are more expensive because they are only a few from the lot. and the worst ones sold as Zapped batteries without any data tag.

    from this experimental with Panasonic 3000mAh cells. I noticed a few things

    Better cells have lower internal resistance – less than 25m Ohm during 3.0A charging (18~25m)
    Some of the cells are like new. charged up to 3800 to 3900 at 3.0A charge only from the 2nd cycling
    Some of the cells work with 6mV delta-peak, and some are working with 8 to 10mV, and it keeps changing with more charging-discharging cycles
    6 of 18 cells still are fresh from the 1st or 2nd charging.
    20 to 25% of them are bad from now. I’ll try more with them, then will update too.
    The rest of them are different, some still has high capacities along with higher resistance (over 38m Ohm), some have low resistance with low capacities. I need to try more with them too

    I already got 6 of best cells just like I bought them 10 years ago. and working with the rest of them. few of them have 38m to 51m Ohm resistance. and I believe higher resistance are worse than low capacity. higher resistance make the cells hot and make them dead fast

    The recommended delta peak setting is around 30mv for 6 cell pack. but it’s for one pack. some of the single cells are too sensitive. and single cell charging can require bigger threshold than 5mv which is 30mv/6. it’s my experience from these 10 year old 18 of Panasonic 3000mAh cells

    will update soon with the discharging rate. I’m working at 5.0A and collecting the data

    [update after 5 days of cycling – Jun 28th, 2015]
    All of the cells had around 5 times of charging-discharging cycling.
    none of them are hot, up to 19V, nor has 50m Ohm resistance.
    some of the cells were good as I mentioned before. and they have only 3 to 4 times cycling. some cells were not that good. and had 1 to 2 more cycling.

    I kept researching about the Delta Peak. and got this conclusion of my own. some documents say 10mV is fine per cell, some documents say 6mV. and I noticed both are right.

    Each cell in the same pack has different delta peak point. and, it was the reason for the matched pack. but, it’s still true each cell meets the delta peak point at the different moment.
    so, it’s fine the set delta peak to 10mv for individual cell. and it’s correct you need to set 5~7ml per cell when you charge a pack. if it’s 30mV/pack, some of the cells are not fully charged, and some of them are slightly overcharged. and it’s still fine I believe. but if you set 60mV for a pack. some of the cells in the same pack would be seriously overcharge.

    but I’m running with Lipo, no more with NiMh batteries which need some special care.

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  • Team Losi Street Weapon IWC Edition

  • this one was supposed to be converted to a rally racer. but I didn’t get a chance yet. ’cause I haven’t see the parts for rally conversion for a while

    anyway, this IWC (IFMAR World Championship) edition seems to be attractive itself. it came with a additional manual just like XX4 WE
    here goes the pics

     

    the additional manual is started with B. it’s the first page here. you can see B through H from this manual

     

     

     

     

     

    “iphone + photoshop + blogspot” show wrong direction of pics sometimes like these

    page A is still on the older manual. but the belts are different than the original one.

    then the slotted graphite chassis

     

     

     

     

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  • my old MX-4

  • I bought this MX-4 at the first day it came from the factory. I remember it was April maybe May ’98. and it’s still one of my favorites. actually I was faster with Losi XX4. but mostly raced with this MX-4. and I could learn more about race and setup from this beauty. everything is still fine except for the rear tires on the front wheel.

     

     

    this trick is great for protecting the spur. the first batch came without this foam in the boxes. and they started to put this in the kits a couple of months later from the release

     

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  • Tamtech Frog

  • got one for my daughter. I have been running GB02 mini champ for years. and this Frog is GB01 chassis. thanks to my friend Al.

     

    installed Losi mini-T shocks which were already purchased for this. the pink spring from losi is too soft. and the stock tamtech spring is too hard. so I had to put 3 thick spacers on each front shock with losi pink spring. even the springs look great with the body

     

     

    related posts:

    https://slowbean.net/2011/01/tamctech-buggy-champ-gb-02-suspension/

    https://slowbean.net/2010/12/tamiya-tamtech-buggy-champ/

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  • tamiya pink wheels part II

  • It has started from here

    https://slowbean.net/2011/02/got-pink-wheels-from-tamiya/

    got HPI 6115 today. but there was no spacer for 10mm wheels. all the spacers are for 11mm. but my metric step bit did it’s job well

     

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  • Team Losi strikes back – 2011 Reedy Race

  • Kyosho Cactus

  • This one has a unique and simple tranny. there is nothing but a set of helical gear in the gear box. one of the interesting parts is the tires. they are sealed and have the air inside like 1:1 car tire tubes.
    it came from ’79 or ’80 according to this.http://www.monstertruckfever.se/cactus.html. but I cannot remember exactly. it was far from my interest back in the days. anyway it’s beautiful

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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