|YZ-834B SE Limited Edition|
Yokomo made this nice chain drive 4WD buggy at 1983 when Hirobo made 44B which was belt driven. YZ-834B was the 1st IFMAR winner at 1985. and we know who was the driver.
the 1st version came with flexable Kydex chassis and rear mono shock. also with front mono shock as you can see.
later chassis has a small bumper and batter chassis for race. but the material is still same. Kydex
RPS SE’s fiberglass chassis is very hard and tweak-proof. RPS SE came with lots of improved parts like shocks, gears, axles, and nice tires.
Delta and Trinity made the chassis as well. and this Trinity is still the best one to me.
1988 YZ10 build with
White winter arms
2mm fine pitch drive train
Yokomo Hotlaps wheels
Lightened diff cups
Composite Craft shock towers
Front aluminum bulkhead
AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release kit
SRS steering blocks
Hotdog4 built with
AE 870C shock towers
MX4 rear aluminum CVD bones
Academy molded wing
Extended wheelbase with longer rear belt
White Kydex bumper, homemade
870C shocks with later shock ends for Works arms
AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release
Hodog4 has the copper springs now
And, few more pics with C4 body
Do not use the small black O-rings in the kit.
use metric O-rings which is hard type. not the soft ones like in AE shocks. the orange ones from later Yokomo shocks worked well.
Put black large cap seals. Yokomo ones are not helpful. AE shock cap O-rings works fine
Do not put the shock end till you finish the shock. you can adjust the rebound without the shock end
The purple shocks look great and leak bad. and there are two different way to build these shocks.
The old way is with springs inside. and another method is with a thin washer instead of the spring. both hold the plastic bushing tight and prevent the leak. but the washer is more simple and works better to me. another problem with the spring method is the stroke keeps getting smaller while the oil leaks
It’s easy to exchange the spring to the washer. the later kit came with 10mm thin copper washer, and any thin washer with 9~10mm diameter works. but the inside hole should be 4mm or more. this margin makes the piston and the red large seal doing their jobs. and, don’t forget AE green slime
Sometimes we got broken shock shafts or alumium shock ends. or I want to use this non-leaking purple shock on my Hogdog4. later yokomo shock shafts are 3mm thick and they are too thin to be replaced. AE shock shafts work well with 870C shocks.
For this, you need to use the washer, not the spring. otherwise the shocks leak
With Composite Craft graphite shock towers and today’s work
This post would be a help.
And, t’s the basic info for CVD bones
’94 YZ10 front CVD bone 84mm
’94 YZ10 rear CVD bone 79mm
MX4 rear CVD bone 79mm
Kysho RB5/RB6 70mm CVD bones work for 870C F/R
MX4 rear bone works with ’94 YZ10 rear. and, Works F/R
’94 YZ10 rear bone works with Works F/R. and, for 870C front wide setup
Bj4 front bone doesn’t work for Yokomo diff cups
’94 YZ10 front
from the top, MX4 Rear / ’94 YZ10 Rear / Jconcpets BJ4 front
While the length is identical, Bj4 CVD bone don’t work for Yokomo diff cups
MX4 bones have longer head pins. it’s fine except for 870C
With YR4 kit and some Works bits
With MX4 rear CVD bones which has the same length with ’94 YZ10 rear and Works F/R
thanks to my friends
The kingpins from 870C through YZ10 are basically same shoulder screws. even you can find the replacements from Tamiya and Kyosho as well. and MX4 kingpins are flanged bushing (flanged sleeve) which are easy to assemble and hard to be lost
The flanged sleeves should be assembled from inside to out on the front C hubs.
But, YZ10 C hub has a bit small room for MX4 kingpins. and both assembled from top to bottom. like these pics
All done with titanium screws, and ready to run.
Found some for myself and friends recently. I had a few while ago. but haven’t seen them for a while
There were 2 different ZD-304S from Yokomo. the early one is more simple, and later one came with idler bearings
the first one is here. it’s very unique with 4 of 4-40 SAE flathead screws on the bottom. they are the same screws you can find from AE cars. and I’m not sure with the later version. I haven’t opened the bag yet
And, this is the later one.
Someone posted some decent pictures of the 2nd version on Tamiya club.
Hudy seems to make the best setup tools on the market. but we never had one for Yokomo YZ10 5mm axle yet. or simply I didn’t see
I got this 1/8 on-road setup tool for 12mm axles. and only thing I need was 4 of 5x12mm bearings. I ordered the bearings. then forgot about it. some metric and SAE bearings came from Avid RC for my Yokomo and AE buggies. but couldn’t remember why I got 5x12mm bearings with them. it took a while to figure it out.
The setup tool is this. Hudy 1/8 on-road setup tool for 12mm axle. and I just switched the front and the rear ones.
Then 1/2″ step bit job on the other side for 3/16″ axles.
Then some thin paper tape to hold the bearings securely
The tool works for the old 834B through YZ10, RC10, and modern 4WD as well.
On the rear axles, 5x12mm bearings works fine for 5mm and 3/16″ both. the difference is small. and we just need the camber angles on the rear axles.
Also, this tool is a very nice display stand for YZ10