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  • Yokomo YZ-834B Wonder Dog Fighter

  • Yokomo YZ-834B Wonder Dog Fighter

     

    YZ-834B SE Limited Edition

    Yokomo made this nice chain drive 4WD buggy at 1983 when Hirobo made 44B which was belt driven. YZ-834B was the 1st IFMAR winner at 1985. and we know who was the driver.

    the 1st version came with flexable Kydex chassis and rear mono shock. also with front mono shock as you can see.

     

    later chassis has a small bumper and batter chassis for race. but the material is still same. Kydex

     

    RPS SE’s fiberglass chassis is very hard and tweak-proof. RPS SE came with lots of improved parts like shocks, gears, axles, and nice tires.

    Delta and Trinity made the chassis as well. and this Trinity is still the best one to me.

     

    Wikipedia link
    The manual is here
    pics of original ’83 Wonder Dog Fighter http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/bs86007/article?mid=61
    a few more pics from my Korean (한글) blog

     

     

     

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  • ’88 YZ10 (870C) and Hotdog4 update

  • 1988 YZ10 build with
    White winter arms
    2mm fine pitch drive train
    Yokomo Hotlaps wheels
    Lightened diff cups
    Composite Craft shock towers
    Front aluminum bulkhead
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release kit
    SRS steering blocks

     

    Hotdog4 built with
    AE 870C shock towers
    MX4 rear aluminum CVD bones
    Academy molded wing
    Extended wheelbase with longer rear belt
    White Kydex bumper, homemade
    870C shocks with later shock ends for Works arms
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release
    Magnesium bulkheads

    Hodog4 has the copper springs now

    And, few more pics with C4 body

     

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  • Yokomo 870C shock tips

  • [Updated]
    Do not use the small black O-rings in the kit.
    use metric O-rings which is hard type. not the soft ones like in AE shocks. the orange ones from later Yokomo shocks worked well.

    Put black large cap seals. Yokomo ones are not helpful. AE shock cap O-rings works fine

    Do not put the shock end till you finish the shock. you can adjust the rebound without the shock end

     

    [Original Post]
    The purple shocks look great and leak bad. and there are two different way to build these shocks.

    The old way is with springs inside. and another method is with a thin washer instead of the spring. both hold the plastic bushing tight and prevent the leak. but the washer is more simple and works better to me. another problem with the spring method is the stroke keeps getting smaller while the oil leaks

    It’s easy to exchange the spring to the washer. the later kit came with 10mm thin copper washer, and any thin washer with 9~10mm diameter works. but the inside hole should be 4mm or more. this margin makes the piston and the red large seal doing their jobs. and, don’t forget AE green slime

    Sometimes we got broken shock shafts or alumium shock ends. or I want to use this non-leaking purple shock on my Hogdog4. later yokomo shock shafts are 3mm thick and they are too thin to be replaced. AE shock shafts work well with 870C shocks.

    For this, you need to use the washer, not the spring. otherwise the shocks leak

    With Composite Craft graphite shock towers and today’s work

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  • Yokomo CVD bones

  • This post would be a help.

    Yokomo YZ10, Works, and 870C universal drives info

    And, t’s the basic info for CVD bones
    ’94 YZ10 front CVD bone 84mm
    ’94 YZ10 rear CVD bone 79mm
    MX4 rear CVD bone 79mm

    Kysho RB5/RB6 70mm CVD bones work for 870C F/R

    MX4 rear bone works with ’94 YZ10 rear. and, Works F/R
    ’94 YZ10 rear bone works with Works F/R. and, for 870C front wide setup
    Bj4 front bone doesn’t work for Yokomo diff cups

    ’94 YZ10 front

     

    from the top, MX4 Rear / ’94 YZ10 Rear / Jconcpets BJ4 front

     

    the pins

     

    While the length is identical, Bj4 CVD bone don’t work for Yokomo diff cups

     

    deep inside

     

    MX4 bones have longer head pins. it’s fine except for 870C

    870C front wide setup with ’94 YZ10 CVD
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  • Yokomo Hotdog4 build from YR4 kit

  • With YR4 kit and some Works bits

     

     

    With MX4 rear CVD bones which has the same length with ’94 YZ10 rear and Works F/R

     

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  • Yokomo 870C build from the parts

  • thanks to my friends

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    wide setup with outer hole, Works CVD, SRS steering knuckle

     

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  • Yokomo YZ10 kingpins

  • The kingpins from 870C through YZ10 are basically same shoulder screws. even you can find the replacements from Tamiya and Kyosho as well. and MX4 kingpins are flanged bushing (flanged sleeve) which are easy to assemble and hard to be lost

     

    The flanged sleeves should be assembled from inside to out on the front C hubs.

     

    But, YZ10 C hub has a bit small room for MX4 kingpins. and both assembled from top to bottom. like these pics

     

    All done with titanium screws, and ready to run.

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  • Yokomo ZC-107C special wing mount

  • Found some for myself and friends recently. I had a few while ago. but haven’t seen them for a while

     

     

     

     

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  • Yokomo ZD-304S machined motor mount

  • There were 2 different ZD-304S from Yokomo. the early one is more simple, and later one came with idler bearings

    the first one is here. it’s very unique with 4 of 4-40 SAE flathead screws on the bottom. they are the same screws you can find from AE cars. and I’m not sure with the later version. I haven’t opened the bag yet

     

     

    And, this is the later one.

    Someone posted some decent pictures of the 2nd version on Tamiya club.
    http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=121643&id=23290

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  • setup tool for Yokomo 5mm axle

  • Hudy seems to make the best setup tools on the market. but we never had one for Yokomo YZ10 5mm axle yet. or simply I didn’t see

    I got this 1/8 on-road setup tool for 12mm axles. and only thing I need was 4 of 5x12mm bearings. I ordered the bearings. then forgot about it. some metric and SAE bearings came from Avid RC for my Yokomo and AE buggies. but couldn’t remember why I got 5x12mm bearings with them. it took a while to figure it out.

    The setup tool is this. Hudy 1/8 on-road setup tool for 12mm axle. and I just switched the front and the rear ones.

    Putting the bearings is everything for this job. couldn’t find flanged ones with the same size. and this standard bearing works fine of course

    Then 1/2″ step bit job on the other side for 3/16″ axles.

    Then some thin paper tape to hold the bearings securely

    Done

    The tool works for the old 834B through YZ10, RC10, and modern 4WD as well.

    On the rear axles, 5x12mm bearings works fine for 5mm and 3/16″ both. the difference is small. and we just need the camber angles on the rear axles.

    Also, this tool is a very nice display stand for YZ10

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