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  • ’88 YZ10 (870C) and Hotdog4 update

  • 1988 YZ10 build with
    White winter arms
    2mm fine pitch drive train
    Yokomo Hotlaps wheels
    Lightened diff cups
    Composite Craft shock towers
    Front aluminum bulkhead
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release kit
    SRS steering blocks

     

    Hotdog4 built with
    AE 870C shock towers
    MX4 rear aluminum CVD bones
    Academy molded wing
    Extended wheelbase with longer rear belt
    White Kydex bumper, homemade
    870C shocks with later shock ends for Works arms
    AE steel turnbuckles from RC10 Worlds re-release
    Magnesium bulkheads

    Hodog4 has the copper springs now

    And, few more pics with C4 body

     

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  • Yokomo 870C shock tips

  • [Updated]
    Do not use the small black O-rings in the kit.
    use metric O-rings which is hard type. not the soft ones like in AE shocks. the orange ones from later Yokomo shocks worked well.

    Put black large cap seals. Yokomo ones are not helpful. AE shock cap O-rings works fine

    Do not put the shock end till you finish the shock. you can adjust the rebound without the shock end

     

    [Original Post]
    The purple shocks look great and leak bad. and there are two different way to build these shocks.

    The old way is with springs inside. and another method is with a thin washer instead of the spring. both hold the plastic bushing tight and prevent the leak. but the washer is more simple and works better to me. another problem with the spring method is the stroke keeps getting smaller while the oil leaks

    It’s easy to exchange the spring to the washer. the later kit came with 10mm thin copper washer, and any thin washer with 9~10mm diameter works. but the inside hole should be 4mm or more. this margin makes the piston and the red large seal doing their jobs. and, don’t forget AE green slime

    Sometimes we got broken shock shafts or alumium shock ends. or I want to use this non-leaking purple shock on my Hogdog4. later yokomo shock shafts are 3mm thick and they are too thin to be replaced. AE shock shafts work well with 870C shocks.

    For this, you need to use the washer, not the spring. otherwise the shocks leak

    With Composite Craft graphite shock towers and today’s work

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  • Yokomo CVD bones

  • This post would be a help.

    Yokomo YZ10, Works, and 870C universal drives info

    And, t’s the basic info for CVD bones
    ’94 YZ10 front CVD bone 84mm
    ’94 YZ10 rear CVD bone 79mm
    MX4 rear CVD bone 79mm

    Kysho RB5/RB6 70mm CVD bones work for 870C F/R

    MX4 rear bone works with ’94 YZ10 rear. and, Works F/R
    ’94 YZ10 rear bone works with Works F/R. and, for 870C front wide setup
    Bj4 front bone doesn’t work for Yokomo diff cups

    ’94 YZ10 front

     

    from the top, MX4 Rear / ’94 YZ10 Rear / Jconcpets BJ4 front

     

    the pins

     

    While the length is identical, Bj4 CVD bone don’t work for Yokomo diff cups

     

    deep inside

     

    MX4 bones have longer head pins. it’s fine except for 870C

    870C front wide setup with ’94 YZ10 CVD
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  • Yokomo Hotdog4 build from YR4 kit

  • With YR4 kit and some Works bits

     

     

    With MX4 rear CVD bones which has the same length with ’94 YZ10 rear and Works F/R

     

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  • Yokomo 870C build from the parts

  • thanks to my friends

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    wide setup with outer hole, Works CVD, SRS steering knuckle

     

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  • Yokomo YZ10, Works, and 870C universal drives info

  • Probably, I posted this somewhere. and I’m doing this again to remind my memory.

    it’s the simple comparison

    ’94 / ’95 / ’97 YZ10 front > ’94~’97 YZ10 rear = Works ’91 / ’92 / ’93 Front = Works Rear = 870C front long version (with outer mount hole on the front arms) > 870C Front = 870C Rear

    so, there are only 3 different lengths from Yokomo from ’87 through ’97.
    but, there are more than one model number for the same length. it’s about the solidity.

    870C universal drive, ZC-421 (front long version ZC-422) are softer than ZC-422A which is Works F/R universal drive. but ZC-422 and ZC-422A still have the same length.

    there are ZC-423, ZC-423S, and ZD-423. all they are for ’94~’97 YZ10 front and the differences are solidity as well. it’s just about the material

    Yokomo keeps testing and making new parts for their current and next models. it’s the reason they keep changing the model numbers and making newer ones. I respect that

    From left to right,
    ZD-423 = post ’94 YZ10 front, super hard version (same length with ZC-423, ZC423S)
    ZD-422 = post ’94 YZ10 rear, super hard version (same with ZC-422A which is for Works)
    ZC-422 = 870C front long version (same with ZD-422, and ZC-422A)
    ZC-421 = 870C F/R

    the actual length from the end to the other end is
    107mm, 101mm, and 96mm
    the length from the end to the universal joint is 25mm

     

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